Growing appeal of Michaelmas goose
The revival of the traditional celebration of Michaelmas by eating goose continues to grow as more families and restaurants see the appeal of seasonal dishes.
Two of London’s top venues will be serving goose at Michaelmas, and around the country producers report growing interest in goose, which starts to become available again this month ahead of Michaelmas (September 29).
"Goose is the last remaining seasonal poultry and that’s an important part of its appeal," says Judy Goodman, chairman of British Goose Producers, part of the British Poultry Council. "As one of the old quarter days, there are many customs associated with Michaelmas which marks the time when geese start to become available."
She is producing 150 to 200 Michaelmas geese on her family’s farm at Great Witley, near Worcester, and finds them in increasing demand at the Malvern Autumn Garden show on September 26 and 27.
In London the prestigious Goring Hotel in Grosvenor Gardens will have goose on the menu for a whole week (September 28 – October 3). Chef Derek Quelch loves serving goose at this time of the year — he explains: "Michaelmas goose is leaner and particularly tender, with a delicious flavour all of its own. And with a fresh Michaelmas goose, you know you’re serving a naturally reared and traditional food."
Award winning wine merchants Berry Bros & Rudd are featuring Michaelmas goose in a food and wine matching event at their St James Street premises on September 25. Diners will sample pâté de foie gras, roast goose, smoked goose breast, confit of goose legs, goose consommé and even chocolate brownies made from goose eggs — all matched with fine Burgundy wines. The goose is supplied by Dorset farmer Michael Colman who will be explaining how they are produced.
Among BGP members around the country who produce Michaelmas geese are Anne Hughes at Layer de le Haye, Colchester, Essex, and John Franklin at Thorncote Green, Sandy, Bedfordshire. Visit www.goose.cc for details of producers around the country.
web link: www.goose.cc 1
