This was written at the turn of the century, it contains a wealth of poultry keeping information most of it still very relevant today and gives us an insight into the work of the poultry keeper
January
Is one of the coldest months of the year, and one must see that the fowls are all comfortably housed and in good condition. Pullets will be mostly laying by this time and backward ones can be brought on by a special diet of green bone fresh from the butchers. The older hens ought also to be well forward, and breeding-pens should be mated at once with second or third year birds. In the early days five hens to one cockerel should not be exceeded, especially as eggs are expensive at this period, and one wants every one of them fertilised. The male bird should be introduced to the pen about three weeks before the eggs are required for incubating, and it is well to feed him heavily for a week or two before mating up. A male bird should never be allowed to run loose with pullets. All birds not absolutely needed for egg-production or breeding should be culled out and sold. Be sure that the house be as warm as possible and free from draughts. Feed plenty of good, wholesome food. If you feed dry mash, let the hopper be open all day, and feed not less than two ounces of sound grain per bird per day. If wet mash is fed, let the birds eat as much as they can pick up in, say, half -an-hour, but afterwards clear away anything remaining until the next meal. Vary the grain food by giving wheat, oats and barley or kibbled maize alternately. Get your incubators ready and give them a trial run to see they are in working order. If there are any frost-bitten combs apply a little camphorated oil gently rubbed in. Be sure that you do not get your hatching eggs frozen by leaving them exposed too long.
February
Another cold month, often accompanied by snow. But eggs are now coming steadily and the heart of the fariner is made glad. Continue to feed plenty of good food and keep up the supply of grain as well as soft foods. Turnips and mangolds may be fed occasionally now, and the birds will appreciate the change, but make certain that the frost does not get near them. Never feed any frosted vegetable to fowls. Swedes are generally liked, and they are safe to feed after Christmas. Anything of this nature assists digestion, and while it helps to cheapen the feed it may increase the size of the egg. Ground meat meal or bone meal should form a fifth part of the diet. The eggs from pens you have mated are now fertile and you can set them under a broody hen or place them in the incubator. Make sure they are of normal shape and size and not more than ten days old. Better still if they are all under a week old. Do not set more than ten or twelve eggs under a hen in this cold season. Heavy breeds only should be bred during the first two months of the year. Early February is the best time to start breeding for table poultry. The birds hatched about the last week in February grow wonderfully fast and well. Thoroughly disinfect and clean out the incubator, making sure that the lamp is burning properly and that the wick is all right, for the season. Any chickens hatched out in February should be allowed out on every available opportunity when not too cold, especially when the sun is shining, but care should be taken to prevent them getting wet. See that the grass on which they run is cut down close to the ground. A covered shed near them will afford protection in an emergency. See that the male bird is sufficiently fed: some will not feed when hens are busy and in that event must be fed separately. He should get plenty of oats and a fair quantity of meat meal. Leghorns and other light breeds should be mated about the end of the month, as well as all cross breeds with a Leghorn cockerel. Be sure your broody hens are free from insects. Even if none are visible sprinkle Biddy with an insecticide powder and feed her chiefly on whole maize.
March
The tide of eggs is steadily rising, and what are not required for breeding should, when fertile, be sold for incubating purposes. A big business is done in eggs for hatching and the price will vary from twice to six times the figure got for commercial eating eggs. March is a very busy month between looking after chickens, continuous hatching and the disposal of surplus eggs. Fertile eggs that go by post or rail require very careful packing. Special boxes may be bought for that purpose, and great care should be taken to see that the eggs are packed tight so that the contents will not be unduly shaken. If the weather is mild let the chicks out of doors as much as possible, but never go away and leave them. A sudden storm of hail or snow might lose you the lot. Even a heavy rain-storm will kill young chickens. Your incubators should now be going in full blast and light breeds should be hatched from now onwards to the end of April. Be it remembered that it is now or with the hatching of heavy breeds. Better also to be too early than a week too late with light breeds. Time steals away like a thief in the night, you can never catch it up Do not coddle the chicks; it is wonderful how they do in dry, cold weather, but do not allow them to get wet.
April
April is the last chance for breeding to advantage. Chicks bred April when eggs are most wanted and fetch the highest price. they grow so well. A May chick is a gamble with the bird proving profitable. Owing to the Jewish festival taking place during this month there is a big demand for fat birds, and as prices rule high any of the unprofitable sort should be cleared out. Keep a watch on the chickens for parasitic pests, and dont forget to spray your poultry houses with a strong disinfectant. I have found nothing better or cheaper than a weak solution of sheep dip about a pint of dip to a pailful of water. You will now be able to separate some of the cockerels from the pullets, and these should be got ready for the market as soon as possible. With the birds being allowed their liberty and plenty of insect life some fish meal or meat meal need be added to their soft food. They ought to pick up about one-fifth of their food and a little less grain will suffice. Hens that are laying heavily, however, should not be stinted. There is a big demand for day-old chicks during April.
May
Many people hatch in May, and if any accident has prevented you getting a full stock before this month, get your eggs down at once, on the principle that it is better late than never. Only light breeds are likely to pay if hatched during this month, but cross breeds may be hatched for table purposes. Very few if any farmers can make table poultry pay, and unless you have special qualifications better leave it alone. Make eggs your speciality. Many heavy breeds will now be going broody. Watch them closely and deal with them at once. If allowed to sit a few days they are difficult to break off. See that the bottom of your broody coop is made uncomfortable, so that sitting will become a burden to the birds. The bottom may either be made of wire or strips of wood, through which the cold air will circulate to cool their fevered blood. Raise the coop on bricks a few inches from the ground, and place it in full view of the hens that are at liberty. Feed sparingly, but do not starve, else the birds will take long to get into laying condition again. Once more sort out cockerels, and those you do not intend to keep for breeding purposes dispose of as soon as possible. As a rule people keep surplus cockerels far too long. Another Jewish festival will enable you to get rid of more of your fat birds. May is a month for growth, and see that your young chicks get all the food they can eat.
June
Shade will be required for chickens young and old in flaming June. If you have no trees, shrubs or natural shelter you must erect some. Four wooden posts held together by light framing about 2 feet high, with canvas stretc
