Unhomogenised milk boom prompts Waitrose farm investment

Waitrose has installed new milk processing equipment at its Hampshire farm after production of unhomogenised milk rose by 74% in three years.

The retailer said increased production of Waitrose Duchy Organic Unhomogenised Milk had led to investment at its Leckford Estate, where new milk tanks have lifted total production capacity by 95% compared with 2023 levels.

Sales of Waitrose Duchy Organic British Free Range Unhomogenised Whole Milk rose by 29% over the past year, while sales of its No.1 Organic Unhomogenised Ayrshire Whole Milk increased by 34%.

Online searches also increased, with Waitrose.com searches for “unhomogenised milk” up 200% in the last year. Searches for “unhomogenised” rose by 367%.

The figures suggest that interest in traditional-style dairy products is translating into changes at farm and processing level, with retailers having to adjust capacity to meet demand.

Unlike homogenised milk, unhomogenised milk allows the cream to rise naturally to the top rather than being evenly dispersed throughout the bottle.

The product is still pasteurised, but it is not put through the homogenisation process, which disperses cream evenly through the milk.

Alice Grigoleit, milk buyer at Waitrose, said unhomogenised milk was “dairy much closer to its natural state”.

She said that while the milk is safely pasteurised, it avoids the high-pressure process used to break down fat molecules.

“By not homogenising, it preserves the milk’s structural integrity, preserving its unique texture and a richer, more complex flavour profile,” she said.

Dan Robinson, food processing manager at the Leckford Estate, said: “Unhomogenised milk is truly becoming the cream of the crop.”

He said customer demand for unhomogenised organic whole milk had grown significantly in recent years, prompting investment in new processing equipment at Leckford.

The new equipment will increase capacity by approximately 20%, according to Waitrose.

The investment at Leckford comes as the wider food sector continues to monitor changing consumer attitudes towards ultra-processed foods and simpler ingredient lists.

For dairy producers, the trend highlights how added-value products, including organic and less processed milk lines, can help retailers differentiate within the fresh milk aisle.

Waitrose said it believed the rise in popularity may be linked to interest in whole foods and growing awareness of ultra-processed foods.

Mr Robinson said: “Many customers are now seeking the ‘brilliant basics’ and embracing a simpler, more natural approach to their diets.”